Our destination today was Montserrat. The Monastery at Montserrat was founded in 1025and the first stones for the basilica were laid in 1560. Over the years the Romanesque/Byzantine interiors were added. In 1811 the Basilica by destroyed by Napoleons Army. Since that time there have been multiple restorations and expansions. Today it is a major destination for pilgrims, school trips and tourists.
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We travelled to Montserrat today first by foot, then by Metro to the rail station at Placa de Espanya, then the R5 train (a local), followed finally by a Cable Car. After dropping our day packs at our hotel and eating lunch we joined the hoards squeezing themselves into the Basilica for the 1pm service of Salve and Virolai which was sung by the boys choir. The boy’s choir here was the first in Europe and today is made up of 55 boys. It was an experience to see so many pilgrims, (and tourists) but not the proper environment for actually listening to their glorious voices. When the day trippers and bus tours had gone and there were less than 50 people in attendance we returned for the Vespers service during which the monks choir alternated with the boys choir. It was lovely.
In between, we visited the Museu de Montserrat, which is housed under the main square. This was a big surprise. In fact their tagline is: Come and see – the art surprise. We came to Montserrat to see the Monastery, hear and boys choir and walk the paths on the mountain not exactly to go to an art museum. Since Napoleon’s army absconded with whatever treasures it could carry in 1811 and the current museum only traces it’s founding to the early 1920’s it has still managed to assemble an enviable collection. We were particular surprised by the works of the Catalan artists of the impressionist era (Vayreda, Casas, Rusinol and others) but there were lots of other surprises as the collection encompasses paintings by old masters, Archaeological finds, Greek and Russians icons, and religious metal work including (again surprisingly) pieces holy to the Jewish faith.
Of all the decorations in the Basilica Marsha was particularly drawn to the many different metal work votive lanterns that line the nave. They were all offered to the Monastery by the counties, towns, and associations around Catalonia. As such they symbolize the presence of the Catalan people.
After the evening service we had dinner in the hotel dining room and retired for the night.
But before I sign off for the night I offer just this historical tidbit.
A hermit who had lived on a Montserrat mountaintop sailed with Columbus in 1492. Hence the name of Montserrat was chosen for one of the Antilles islands.
In between, we visited the Museu de Montserrat, which is housed under the main square. This was a big surprise. In fact their tagline is: Come and see – the art surprise. We came to Montserrat to see the Monastery, hear and boys choir and walk the paths on the mountain not exactly to go to an art museum. Since Napoleon’s army absconded with whatever treasures it could carry in 1811 and the current museum only traces it’s founding to the early 1920’s it has still managed to assemble an enviable collection. We were particular surprised by the works of the Catalan artists of the impressionist era (Vayreda, Casas, Rusinol and others) but there were lots of other surprises as the collection encompasses paintings by old masters, Archaeological finds, Greek and Russians icons, and religious metal work including (again surprisingly) pieces holy to the Jewish faith.
Of all the decorations in the Basilica Marsha was particularly drawn to the many different metal work votive lanterns that line the nave. They were all offered to the Monastery by the counties, towns, and associations around Catalonia. As such they symbolize the presence of the Catalan people.
After the evening service we had dinner in the hotel dining room and retired for the night.
But before I sign off for the night I offer just this historical tidbit.
A hermit who had lived on a Montserrat mountaintop sailed with Columbus in 1492. Hence the name of Montserrat was chosen for one of the Antilles islands.