This morning we were greeted by Mylena when we ventured out of our room. She served us breakfast on the open air porch which wraps around the apartment. It was an ample breakfast which started with Cuban Coffee. Although they warned us that it would be strong and served it with a second carafe of hot water to weaken it and with warm milk we decided that it was not much stronger than the standard cup at Peet's Coffee.
This was followed by eggs cooked to order, a basket of assorted breads, then a plate of assorted fresh fruit, guava and papaya juice and, to top it all off a slice of lemon pie. Pie for breakfast this is my kind of place. What they refer to as lemon is actually lime. This pie was green. The same was true in the restaurant where we went for lunch. We ordered lemonade but what arrived was definitely limeade (recipe). Not that we mind in either case both the pie and the limeade were delicious. We also met and chatted with the two young Finnish women who are the other current guests here.
Once seated we readied ourselves for the arrival of the guide that Otto arranged for our first day in Havana. What a day! We headed off with our guide Armando and a driver seated in the back seat of a beautifully restored 55 Chevy Bel Air to see the sights with Armando.
Armando is an interesting guy who, after several careers including being a sales representative for a Cuban cigar manufacturer in China, an owner/operator of a restaurant in Cuba, and a law student, decided to become a tourist guide because he didn't like that visitors to Havana Cuba were not seeing the interesting things that he thought they ought to be seeing. He knew his history of Cuba, was a thoughtful teacher, and related his knowledge without varnishing it in any partisan slant.
Armando is an interesting guy who, after several careers including being a sales representative for a Cuban cigar manufacturer in China, an owner/operator of a restaurant in Cuba, and a law student, decided to become a tourist guide because he didn't like that visitors to Havana Cuba were not seeing the interesting things that he thought they ought to be seeing. He knew his history of Cuba, was a thoughtful teacher, and related his knowledge without varnishing it in any partisan slant.
First stop was "The Forest". This park, on the outskirts of the present city, is where Havana was first settled. Due to a lack of deep harbor at the Forest, the city moved to it's present location at the edge of the ocean. It is easy to understand why the first European settlers were so entranced by this lush, verdant land. Lush doesn't even begin to describe the scene. Unfortunately, here and elsewhere there was items of trash strewn about. It was explained that the afro-cuban religions believe that one is honoring the fallen by leaving debris where it lands. This is both unfortunate and somewhat understandable. In 1565 an aqueduct was by built from this area to the location of the new city to provide fresh water. This was the first aqueduct in the New World.
The Forest of Havana
The Forest of Havana
The Forest apparently was a popular spot for many people who had contracted with drivers of old restored cars. It was sort of like hunting at a waterhole.
We then drove through the Miramar section of city. This is where the rich built their homes in the 1930's. Both rich Cubans and Americans -- American Gangsters. It is now where the foreign embassies are located. Before the revolution there were numerous social clubs lining the waterfront and restricting the use of the beaches to only their members. After the revolution the beaches were open to all. Last night there were high winds that resulted in flooding along the oceanfront. Damage from flooding was quite evident this morning. There was a lot of debris as a result of the waves that were still pounding the shore while workmen began the cleanup.
Miramar
Miramar
This video shows the damage caused by the high winds causing pounding waves the previous day.
Along the way to our next stop we passed the Cemetario Colon. This place is within walking distance of our lodgings so we will return another day. [Note: As it turns out, we didn't, but heard it was an interesting place. Next time]
One thing that Harry really wanted to do in Havana was to have his photo taken in front of the image of Che Guevara in the Plaza of the Revolution. So he was thrilled to be able to do just that.
Not one but many photos to document the occasion. This is 3rd largest such space in the world (certainly Vatican square is one of the first two I am not sure of the other but did not doubt some member of our readership will know or investigate). We are somewhat hampered at the moment without internet access. In general, private homes do not have Internet access in Cuba although some public parks and hotels do. They are easy to recognize by the crowds of folks loitering about with cell phones in their hands. Back to Revolution Square....
360° Rotation Around Revolution Square
Revolution Square is indeed very large and surrounded by government buildings. There is parking on one side for tour buses and the ubiquitous 1950's taxis. Interestingly our guide said that he could not accompany us onto the square itself as it is not allowed by the authorities. So while standing near the parking lot he gave us information about the buildings and the monuments which we then set out to view. These included another image on the side of another building of Camilo CienFuegos who was a commander of equal stature to Fidel and Che -- a leader of the rebels and close friend of the Castro brothers. He disappeared without a trace in 1959 while flying in a small plane. There is also a monument to Jose Marti a national hero who died in battle in 1895. A curious end for a poet, essayist, and journalist who believed fervently in Cuban independence. Later in the day while walking through the Plaza Vieja we heard a group of school children reciting one of Marti's poems.
Revolution Square
Revolution Square
Many Cubans are into their vintage cars, including Alessandro. While we were in the area, he took us on a detour We then drove past the Capitol building which is a 1/5th scale version of the U.S. Capital building and the President's palace which is now, quite fittingly the Museum of the Revolution and through the tunnel to the other side of the harbor
From the Castillo del Moro and the adjoining San Carlos de la Cabana we enjoyed the view back over the bay to Havana. This was especially beautiful today with the waves crashing along the Malecon.
We also stopped at a roadside Sugar Cane juice stand where the sugar cane was squeezed in a hand cranked machine to which, was then added pieces of lime and pineapple and a generous splash of rum. This is a fine cure what ails you after several hours of touring. When I mentioned I had read about the cane workers sucking on cane stalks while working the fields our driver expertly cut and peeled a piece of cane for each of us to try. It was delicious.
While sitting in the shade by the drawbridge to Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña, we talked with Armando about Cuban political history from 1953 when Batista took power (with CIA support) to the present. At other times during the day we discussed the monetary system (there are two), education, health care, and much more.
Views from Castillo Del Moro and San Carlos de la Cabaña
We also stopped at a roadside Sugar Cane juice stand where the sugar cane was squeezed in a hand cranked machine to which, was then added pieces of lime and pineapple and a generous splash of rum. This is a fine cure what ails you after several hours of touring. When I mentioned I had read about the cane workers sucking on cane stalks while working the fields our driver expertly cut and peeled a piece of cane for each of us to try. It was delicious.
While sitting in the shade by the drawbridge to Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña, we talked with Armando about Cuban political history from 1953 when Batista took power (with CIA support) to the present. At other times during the day we discussed the monetary system (there are two), education, health care, and much more.
Views from Castillo Del Moro and San Carlos de la Cabaña
Nearby Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña, was a display of armaments from the time of the Cuban Missile Crisis. This was a real treat for my cold war aficionado husband. Of course with all of such displays, a fair amount of Cuban nationalism enters the descriptions -- just as similar amounts of USA nationalism permeates our descriptions.
Relics from the Cuban Missile Crisis
Relics from the Cuban Missile Crisis
We then stopped for lunch at a restaurant with a fine view back to the Castillo del Moro and the city beyond, good Cuban food and a band to serenade us while we ate.
After lunch we drove back through the tunnel to La Habana Vieja, the old city. Here we bid goodbye to our driver and headed off on foot with Armando for an overview of the sites. Stopping occasionally to enter a shop, gallery or other important building. Along the way he took us into a building that originally had once been one home. It is now in a state of decrepitude and has been divided up so that 30 families are living in very cramped quarters. Since the state provides decent housing to all, they could move but would be assigned housing that would be way outside the city. It was very upsetting to see these kinds of living conditions. We continued our walk through the four major squares of the oldest part of Havana and now have a good sense of where to go for the remaining days of our trip here.
La Habana Vieja
Here's an interesting vignette Armando told us today. When Castro first met Khrushchev in New York they talked for several hours. Afterwards the press asked Khrushchev whether he thought Castro was a Communist. Khrushchev's response was "I don't know, but I am a Fidelist".
It was a long day but we are very pleased with our decision to take this tour as an introduction to Havana.